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Wine Wednesday: Dashe Cellars

When Jenny Boone of Boonedocks Distribution drops me a line about someone special she's bringing to town, I usually take notice. When she told me that she was introducing a new line of boutique Sonoma County Zinfandels and Cabernet and bringing one of the winery owners into town for a whole week, I wasn't interested. I was fascinated.
I'm a big fan of red zin in all of its expressions. From big, bold fruit bombs to more subtle European treatments, wines made from Zinfandel, or Primitivo, have long been some of my favorites. Dashe Cellars is owned and run by a husband-and wife team who add two unique sensibilities to the production of
fine wines. Anne Dashe has a degree in oenology from the University of Bordeaux, while her husband is a graduate of the University of California at Davis. When they came together as a family and a winemaking team, each Dashe contributed the best of the New World and the Old World to their wines, with a special commitment to showcasing the elements of terroir that reflect the unique soil, climate and regional characteristics of the vineyards where they harvest their grapes.
I met Anne at a tasting at RED Spirits and Wine and found her to be a passionate and engaging ambassador for her wines. Although the Dashes don't own any vineyards, they have long-term contracts with their growers to ensure consistent supply and quality of fruit. They especially seek out plots that will help them emphasize the old-school style of winemaking that demonstrates minerality. Dashe uses all indigenous yeasts, and little or no filtration of their wines. In fact, they strive to add very little in the way of outside influences on the process. Dashe summed up her philosophy as, "Leave it alone and intervene only when needed."


Put wine in play for baseball fans

Visiting a ballpark? Here's a wish list of wine pairings with local grub

April 25, 2012

"Cold wine here! Get yer cold wine here!"

This you will not be hearing at a Major League Baseball park this summer.

Sure, in the hoity-toity private boxes or on "club level," good wine abounds. It's one of the draws. But for the hoi polloi who snag a dog or a slice at the down-market concession stands, the wine selection (if any) is pretty much what my son, Colin, reported finding at his home base of Coors Field in Denver: "Woodbridge and Sutter Home merlot and white zinfandel."

I'd rather a brew. There's more flavor.

Ah, but for a glass of good wine with the hot dog. Yet, to play off Yogi Berra, "If the fans don't want wine at the ballpark, you can't stop them."

Wouldn't you guess that they do serve a decent wine at field level in the San Francisco Giants' AT&T Park — Hess Select's Monterey California Chardonnay? I asked Sandie Filipiak, director of concessions there, what archetypal Giants ballpark food she'd serve with that wine. She said, "I would say our famous Crazy Crab'z sandwich, a Dungeness crab and tomato sandwich, lightly grilled on sliced sourdough French bread." Perfect pairing for the country's numero uno wine-producing state.

That got me to thinking, what would be my wish list were I — or any lover of delish wine — to venture to fields afar this summer, to catch a game and the local grub, and with them a glass of good wine? Here we go, east to west and back to San Francisco Bay....

...The Coliseum, Oakland Athletics: Kinder's BBQ ball tip sandwich

2009 Dashe Cellars Zinfandel Florence Vineyard Dry Creek Sonoma California: In a world of high octane zins, Dashe still turns out food-friendlies, such as this "dry" blackberry jam turned liquid, with a gorgeous hint of (of all things) melted butter; plush tannins, moderate alcohol, juicy and delicious; little better for red meat barbecue. $32....

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Dry Creek Valley moves up the zinfandel ladder

California is the pinnacle of American wine. It produces 90 percent of all wine produced in the United States, and its best rival those of any wines in the world. Yet in global terms, California is still a young wine region — evolving in style, influenced by changing preferences of consumers and winemakers.

Case in point: Dry Creek Valley, one of my favorite wine regions to visit, in person or in bottle. It extends northwest from Healdsburg in northern Sonoma County to the dam at Lake Sonoma and beyond into a mountainous, almost primal region known appropriately as Rockpile. The area makes great sauvignon blanc and lots of cabernet sauvignon (though most cab disappears anonymously into Sonoma County blends).

Recommended zinfandels 

Dry Creek really is prime country for zinfandel. The climate is hot enough to ripen zin, yet cool enough that the grape — which can produce wines of 16 percent alcohol in hotter regions such as Lodi or Amador — can be moderated in the hands of a careful winemaker.......


Michael Dashe, who has made zinfandel in Dry Creek since 1989 with Ridge Vineyards and since 1996 under his own label, has seen the region’s style move toward higher-alcohol wines and back toward more moderate levels.

“Global warming has had an effect on grape ripening, and in Dry Creek the sugars were getting higher without the flavors getting ripe,” Dashe says. “In my years, there had been a shift to higher- alcohol wines partly because people haven’t been sure how to handle that issue of the grapes getting riper later. Now I think people are dealing with it better and are able to get grapes riper at lower sugar levels. Of course, it helps that the last few years have been cooler, too.”

Dashe’s zinfandels, produced from various vineyard sites in Dry Creek Valley, tend to be more earthy than fruit-forward. This may reflect a European sensibility. Dashe’s wife, Anne, is French and determines the blend of each bottling.

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How to pair wine

This week: Meat with sweet

1:02 p.m. CSTMarch 7, 2012


We don't realize how much salt we eat in everyday foods. Bread and rolls, for example, are America's saltiest foods, twice saltier than potato chips, says theCenters for Disease Control and Prevention. Likewise, we eat a lot of sugars even while we believe otherwise. This isn't a hunk of pork dish; it's meat with sweet. Consider those figs, even the cooked onion.

Always pair sweet foods with wines that are either as sweet by the same measure, or that give the impression of sweetness, as do rich, fruity reds. A bit of tannin helps here, too, as a foil for fat....

...2010 Dashe Cellars Grenache Les Enfants Terribles, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma: A specialty of this winery is wines from grapes that usually sport high alcohol but do not under its care; a beautiful and aromatic red here with gobs of "sweet" red fruit flavors and dusting tannin...


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It would be a sin to ignore high-quality California zins


Ruesday, March 12, 2012

To glimpse California winegrowing at its purest, turn to Dry Creek Valley zinfandels. The best wines embody the pioneering spirit of unpretentious, flavorful wines meant for hearty enjoyment with food rather than prestige.

European settlers arrived in Dry Creek Valley in 1849 and produced the first documented commercial zinfandel in 1872. It was followed by 140 years of uninterrupted, yet eventful production. Today, Dry Creek Valley zinfandel production thrives with more than 60 wineries....

...Talented winemaker Michael Dashe purchased fruit to make the 2009 Dashe Cellars Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, California, a terrific blend from several family-owned sites. To highlight the balanced character of grapes picked at optimal maturity, Dashe uses native yeasts for fermentation followed by aging the wines in large-format, neutral oak tanks.

Additions of small amounts of petite sirah (4 percent) and carignane (3 percent) create a classic Dry Creek Valley blend. Enticing dark-cherry and spice aromas open to velvety flavors. Bright acidity and smooth tannins balance an elegant finish. Highly recommended.

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